Tennis in Qatar

Earlier this month, we attended a couple of tennis matches for the Qatar ExxonMobil Open tournament.  In preparation for the Australian Open, many of the top players chose to warm up the year in Doha, including Rafael Nadal, Roger Federer and Jo-Wilfried Tsonga.

Our first match was Rafael Nadal vs Ernests Gulbis. Great game, Gulbis played well and won a couple of sets but of course, Nadal won the match.

Secondly, we watched Nadal in a doubles match with his Spanish doubles partner Lopez.

The following day we watched Roger Federer play Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, a close match with Federer getting to the finals.  Nikolay Davydenko also played Nadal in the semis. This was one of the best matches we watched of the tournament – unfortunately, Nadal was ill and Davydenko clearly knew his weaknesses.  They had played in the finals the previous year and Davydenko, though seeded 26th or something, was the tournament’s defending champion. After some intense sets – Davydenko got through to the finals, leaving a very disappointed Rafa (and his large number of supports).

The finals were a good match between Federer and Davydenko. Federer won and, as always, made a humble, speech.  His prize money was something like $200k – not bad for a weeks work!

Rafael Nadal Quarter FinalRafael Nadal Quarter FinalMarc Lopez and Rafael Nadal Doubles Semi Final
Marc Lopez and Rafael Nadal Doubles Semi FinalRoger Federer vs Jo-Wilfried Tsonga Semi FinalQatar Marching Band
Nikolay Davydenko FinalRoger Federer FinalRoger Federer presented with winners trophy

Beirut – the party capital of the Arab world

The thought of New Years Eve in Doha wasn’t very exciting with a handful of Western hotels, who are allowed to serve alcohol, providing the majority of night life. We wanted to take advantage of the festive season and celebrate the New Year somewhere where it isn’t just another day off, but where streets were full and people celebrating.

We went to an area we had previously walked though and had dinner, endless clubs and bars lined the streets. We started approaching clubs we liked but all responded with “do you have a reservation”. After half a dozen attempts we started to wander, what country do you need to prebook to have a drink? Apparently, in Beirut it was common to book dinner at a bar to minimise the time spent wondering around and waiting in lines. After trying some more bars we found Copper which offered us $120 for dinner and open bar, we took it.

With a party pack provided of poppers, mask and novelty hats we wished the New Year in. The night was fun with plenty of food and alcohol, and even some Arabic pop music mixed in.

Beirut Copper New Years Eve
Beirut Copper New Years Eve

The Temples of Baalbek

On our third day we decided to drive from Hamra, Beirut east to visit the Baalbek Temples. Having visited Jordan in July we weren’t expecting anything too dissimilar (to quote my father ‘Once you’ve seen one Roman ruin – you’ve seen them all!’), but we were pleasantly surprised.  Baalbek was very picturesque and the mild, cooler weather sure made it far more enjoyable than the sweltering Jerash.  The drive there was also incredible, passing through the snow capped Lebanon Mountains.

On our way to Baalbek, which is in the Bekaa Valley, we stopped at a quaint town called Zahle.  Located across a scenic valley and mountain side it reminded me of Europe.  Having not had any breakfast we decided to stop for lunch at the Monte Alberto Hotel, located on the edge of a mountain.  Our table had lovely views of the town. We opted for Lebanese mezze which consisted of shanklish, baba ganoush, fattoush and kibbeh.  I also sampled the local aniseed beverage, Arak, which was very strong, fragrant and a bit like Sambuca.

Monte Alberto Restaurant ZahleMonte Alberto Restaurant ZahleMonte Alberto Restaurant overlooking Zahle

As we approached Baalbek we noted the yellow and green Hezbollah flags lining the streets.  The Baalbek temple was easily spotted from the main road.  Five massive Roman pillars dominated our view.  Upon entering the ruins, we were approached by a guide and accepted his offer to show us around for $20USD.

He told us stories of how the Phoenicians first came to the area in ancient times, then the Romans, then the Arabs, then the Christians – and how basically each layer represents each empire.   I enjoyed his descriptions of Bacchus the Roman emperor who was ‘born from a grapevine’ as the stone carvings depicted (his temple was built for decadence and debauchery – wine and women was what he was famous for).

We stayed till sunset, enjoying the pleasures of taking photos with no one around but us.

Ruins of Round Temple and Temple of VenusPropylaea entrance to Hexagonal ForecourtHexagonal Forecourt with horse stables
Roman inscriptionsGreat Court with ruins of Basilica and High Altar of Burnt SacrificeGriffon and Pegasus
Swastika meanderLion headwater spoutRoman columns and entablature
Snake Goddess AngitiaRemains of Temple of JupiterSonya and Travis inside Temple of Bacchus
Temple of Bacchus facing EastDetails inside Temple of BacchusGreat Court with ruins of Basilica and Altar
Sonya and the Great CourtGreat Court exedraSonya and Travis Great Court
Sonya and Travis Great Court exedraSilhouette of Temple of JupiterRemaining columns of Temple of Jupiter
Sonya with the columns of Temple of JupiterTemple of BacchusLion headwater spout

Byblos and Tripoli, Lebanon

With only three full days in Lebanon, we decided to break it up into Beirut, North Lebanon and East Lebanon.

Byblos

Heading toward Tripoli in the north is the city Byblos. Byblos contains a vast array of ancient ruins from the civilisations that previously inhabited it. One thing about Lebanon is that the ruins are everywhere, and as we drove into Byblos is was impossible not to miss the Crusader Castle in the background of all the modern buildings.

Towards the Castle is an old souk containing stalls selling all kinds of Arabic trinkets. The Crusader Castle offered amazing views of the archaeological site and the Byblos city. Whilst the archaeological site contained many theatres and temples, it was difficult to appreciate them looking at weathered rocks.
From the site we walked through the Old Town and towards the Old Port stopped at Church of St John the Baptist.

Entrance to the SouqColourful windmillsArabic trinkets sold at the Souq
Travis reading the Lonely PlanetSteps to the Crusader CastleSonya at the entrance to the Crusader Castle
Overview of the archaeological siteTravis looking at skyline of ByblosSkyline of Byblos
View of a Mosque from the Crusader CastleOld PortChurch of St John the Baptist

Tripoli

Tripoli was a quick stop, we wandered the markets and a Lebanese man even showed us how he made soap, which Tripoli is quite famous for. After picking up some sweets, we headed back to the car to find my first wheel clamp. Now, I was in a foreign country, nobody spoke English, the accompanying note was in Arabic, I thought we were done. After about 5 minutes of cursing a young Arabic man tried to offer his help, and though he was speaking in Arabic we worked out we should go in the direction he was pointing. Fortunately, the guy placing the wheel locks was only on a scooter and we managed to track him down further along the road, and 5000 Lira (yes $3.30) later we were back on our way.

When we hire a car I never like to travel back along the same route came, so travelling back to Beirut we decided to go through the mountains. Towards the mountains were scattered towns in the valleys and even snow on the mountain tips.

Mansouri Great MosqueEntrance to the marketsProduce for sale
Great Mosque doorZeitounEhdan mountains