The Istanbul district Beyoglu has a large amount of street art sprawled over its alley ways and walk ways. I, but mostly Sonya’s sister, Sukey, took a large number of photos which I thought would be cool to share.
On the weekend we decided to venture to the Qatar camel race tracks in the hope of watching the traditional Bedouin sport. Little information could be found out about the races beforehand, except that they are usually held in winter and the main race course was in Al Shahhaniya. Races supposedly commenced after midday Fridays and Saturdays (the weekend here).
We arrived at the race course (about 40 minutes out of Doha) around 1pm, there was no one around aside from a few camels being trained. The stands were empty and locked so we figured the race had most probably been cancelled. As we were there already, we decided to take a few photographs of the training camels. After some time, we noticed other cars appearing and eventually established that the races were to commence at 1:30pm. It wasn’t a sit down and watch from the stands kind of race. The local custom is to drive your car (4WD in most cases) along side the racing camels – there’s even a road which runs next to the track.
We lingered around the starting point for the next 20 minutes, watched the trainers as they prepared the camels. Rather than a human jockey, they use robot jockeys which have an electronically controlled whip. Quite a comical sight. We somehow kind of missed the first race – there was no official announcement or anything – it just happened suddenly and I suspect the race really started whenever the camels wanted to start. However, there were another 3 races to go. It was all very entertaining to watch. One camel even headed in the opposite direction. During the last race we joined the convoy of 4WDs (in our tiny 208 Peugeot coupe) and drove alongside the camels towards the finish line. There were plenty of people there, mainly Qatari, in their white Landcruisers driving crazily around the track and cheering along their camels. It was definitely worth the visit – a very local and fun experience!
So it has been just over six months since our move to this tiny, gas-rich country in the gulf. The past months have gone by quickly but at the same time it feels like we have been here for longer. In some ways adjusting to life in Doha hasn’t been too difficult – it’s a very family oriented city, extremely safe (they say you can leave your car unlocked here and it will be fine, though I’ve never tried) and almost 70% of the population is an expat – so most people we’ve met are in the same boat – away from family, friends, familiarity, living in a foreign land. Most people come for work, and to raise their family in a safe stable environment, many come for the tax benefits – there are all sorts of people and from everywhere. (Generally, most people look at me strange when I say we came for the adventure!).
In other ways, living in this country can be challenging (namely the traffic, and having to ask your employer’s permission before being able to do anything – ranging from buying liquor to leaving the country!). However, six months on and, if anything, living here has opened my eyes to things I would never have seen or experienced back home. Anyway, here are some of my favourite things about living in Qatar:
1. People. There’s an incredible mix of people and culture in this country. I’ve met and work with people from Palestine, Tunisia, Nigeria, Egypt, Lebanon, Wales, Ireland, South America, Holland, Estonia, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, the list goes on of all places around around the world.. listened to their stories and each day I learn something new about these places, whether a new word in a new language or a different perspective on a country’s political environment (particularly with the recent events in the region).
2. Food. I was never very exposed to Middle Eastern food – aside from the usual hommus and pita bread, back home. However, after adapting to the local produce here we’ve started experimenting, making our own fattoush, tabboleh, and various other dishes. We incorporate lots of mediterranean food like olives, capsicum, eggplant, couscous, into our meals – plus there’s a wider variety of South Asian foods as well (ever seen a drumstick or a Kerala Chow Chow?).
3. Souk Waqif. This is my most favourite place in Doha. It is the original market place of old Doha and is probably the most beautiful souk I’ve seen so far (even after visiting Istanbul, Amman and Beirut!). A friend from work described being there like being in a time warp – you enter the souk and you’re suddenly in a different world. The fragrances of Arabic perfume, the sight of local Qatari’s in their dishdashas and abayas… the beautifully refurbished Islamic architecture..narrow alleys leading you to silk pashminas, pearls, gold or cheap knicknacks…the smells …spices..apple shisha.. even the nearby camels. It is really quite an amazing sensory experience.
4. The corniche. This is is kind of like the unwritten meeting place for all significant events. It is the street that runs along the blue green waters of the Arabian gulf. When Qatar won the 2022 bid, everyone headed to the corniche. Qatar National Day is celebrated on the corniche. On a Thursday evening, the corniche is packed with people, enjoying the city skyline and the sea breeze. There are also heaps of familiies picnicking along the corniche on the weekends.
5. Events. Okay, so from a musical or theatrical perspective Doha doesn’t have much to offer (aside from the annual Bryan Adams concert) however sporting events are huge – so far we’ve seen tennis, football (Asia Cup was on in Jan) and this weekend we’re off to watch the annual camel racing. Things we wouldn’t normally watch at home.
6. Lastly, ability to travel. Qatar is so close to the gulf states, as well as the rest of the Middle East and North Africa. Being from one of the world’s most physically isolated cities – it is quite amazing to be able to hop onto a flight and, in less than an hour, be in another country. Hope we can see more before we head back home!
Bursa and the Iskender Kebab
On the way from Ephesus back to Istanbul we stopped at Bursa which is famous for the Iskender kebab. We found a small street restaurant and order three Iskender kebabs, not knowing what to expect. After a little while we were served with one of the most unattractive dishes I have seen. Picture a large pile of sliced kebab meat on a plate with glistening pools of butter. Hidden underneath is pide bread which soaks up the tomato flavoured sauce and butter. The only redemption was the few slices of pickles and tomatoes.
From Bursda we crossed the Sea of Marmara by car ferry and crossed from Asian to European Turkey. Instead of staying at old Istanbul to the south of the Golden Horn we thought it would be a nice change staying on the northern side in the Beyoglu district. After a nightmare time trying navigating the narrow one-way streets and looking for parking, we decided to not touch the car till our departure.
During the walk to our hotel, we started to realise we were staying at the hip part of town, boutique stores and street art everywhere. Our hostel was also a pleasant surprise, a small loft room with private bathroom and main window overlooking the street.
Galata Tower, Istiklal Avenue and Taksim Square
That evening we decided to wander the streets, first visiting Galata Tower. Originally built as a light house, Galata Tower offers amazing views of the Golden Horn and Beyoglu.
From Galata Tower we followed the tram tracks along Istiklal Avenue an elegant pedestrian street to Taksim Square taking photos of the Monument of Republic. We ended our night with dinner at one of the restaurants.
Dolmabahçe Palace
In the morning we decided to visit Dolmabahce Palace one of the main administrative centres of the Ottoman Empire. Walking towards the Gate of the Sultan which marked the entrance to the palace there was a lone Turkish Guard guarding the entrance. I guess similar to the Queen’s Guards in Buckingham Palace. The Turkish Guard also did not move which made for some good photographs. Inside the palace grounds were neatly trimmed gardens and extravagant fountains. Inside the palace was what I would describe as an ‘old person’s home’, many styles clashing together with the view of more is better. There was also one of the world’s largest chandeliers in one room, though those went out of style years ago.
From Dolmabahce Palace we walked over the Golden Horn Bridge with the aim the try a famous fish sandwich. We found a number of restaurants under the Golden Horn Bridge who severed nothing move then a fillet of fish in a bun with salad, it was delicious. At the Old Istanbul side was a large open area with many small stands selling snacks, the first think we tried was a glass of red water with floating pieces, it turned out picked vegetables in brine (turşu). From salty we tried sweet, deep fried balls of pastry in syrup (kemalpaşa tatlısı).
We made one last stop at the Grand Bazaar stocking up on Turkish Delight and souvenirs.
Bosporus Cruise
For our last day in Istanbul there was no better thing to do then a cruise up the Bosporus River. After a rushed boarding, narrowly missing the departure we took our seats on the ferry. The ferry passed a number of key sights including Galata Tower, Dolmabahce Palace, Ortakoy Mosque, Bosphorus Bridge, Beylerbeyi Palace, Küçüksu Palace and Anadolu Kavağı were we made a stop. Anadolu Kavağı located on the Asian side of Turkey is the location of Yoros Castle which on a hill overlooking the Black Sea. We climbed up to Yoros Castle, but unfortunately it was closed for restoration.
For lunch we had mezze at one of the restaurants on the shore before heading back down the Bosporus crossing from the Asian to European Turkey for the last time. One last walk across the Golden Horn Bridge heading towards the car ended our Istanbul holiday.
