Egypt – Giza, Dahshur and Saqqara pyramids

The Giza Necropolis is the site of the most famous pyramids of Ancient Egypt, one of the ancient wonders still in existence.  There are also few other sites with much older pyramids, mainly in the Dahshur and Saqqara areas.

We decided to hire a driver for the day to visit the three sites. We found one just outside our hostel and he offered us 200EGP (equivalent to $30) to drive us around for the whole day.  He turned out to be quite a friendly, interesting character.  He had been driving tourists for the past twenty five years and had many stories to tell. Unfortunately, due to the recent events in Cairo, he said business was slow and we were his first customers in quite a while.

We arrived in front of the Giza plateau as it was opening for the day.  A few security checks later and we were inside the complex. It seemed we were the first people to enter that day – there was no one else around except for us and the souvenir sellers!  We marvelled at the three pyramids (Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure) and Sphinx (which is a lot smaller in real life) and chatted to the children as they setup their stalls.  Then we wandered around towards the smallest of the three pyramids – Pyramid of Menkaure.  We accidentally did not pre-purchase tickets to enter the pyramid however managed to get in by paying the ‘caretaker’ directly (oops!).  We then walked around the complex in awe of the magnificence and magnitude of the Great Pyramid (also known as Cheops/Khufu) which was built in 2560 BC, it is the oldest and largest of the three.

Approaching Giza Plateau from CairoTravis, the Sphinx, the Pyramid of Khafre and a dogSonya and the Sphinx and Pyramid of Khufu protruding
The Sphinx with parts of the Pyramid of Khufu visible behindSonya and Travis at the SphinxCamel in front of Pyramid of Khafre
Travis in awe at the size of Pyramid of KhafreSonya with the Pyramid of Khufu behindSonya and Travis with Pyramid of Khafre behind
Sonya touching her first stone carvingCamel in front of Pyramid of KhufuTravis at the steps of the Pyramid of Khufu
The Giza Plateau, Pyramid of Khufu in the front, Khafre behind.Sonya and Travis at the Giza PlateauSphinx at Pyramid of  Khafre

After Giza pyramids, we picked up some falafel from a street vendor and headed to Dahshur. Here lies Snefru’s Red and Bent pyramids and the Black pyramid. The Red pyramid is thought to be the first real pyramid.  Ancient Egyptians had experimented with various shapes before the Giza pyramids and the Red pyramid was the first of the true pyramidal form.  The Red and Bent pyramids were commissioned by Pharaoh Snefru’s (2613-2589 BC). We climbed inside the Red pyramid which was a 68m long passage way into the main chamber – by far the deepest pyramid we had entered.  It smelt funny inside, so we didn’t spend too long in there!

Sonya and Travis at the Bent PyramidTravis at the corner of the Bent Pyramid, notice how smooth the pyramid's face is.Red Pyramid in the distance

We then headed to the Pyramids of Saqqara which is famous for the Step of pyramid Djoser. We also visited the nearby Pyramid of King Teti (in the same complex) which looked to be a big mound, but inside the pyramid it was impressive – decorated with walls of beautiful hieroglyphs, stars on the ceiling and Teti’s sarcophagus. Next to Teti were a set of tombs for high officials (New Kingdom period) which had wonderfully decorated paintings and murals.

Sonya at the Pyramid of Djoser (Step Pyramid)Cobra at the Great Court of Djoser complexHorse at the Pyramid of Djoser (Step Pyramid)
Pyramid of Djoser (Step Pyramid)Pyramid of Userkaf, look hard enough and you can see TravisTravis touching his first hieroglyphs
Hieroglyphs inside Pyramid of TetiHieroglyphs inside Pyramid of TetiInside one of the tombs along Street of Tombs

Our driver happily dropped us off at Ramses train station (we gave him a good baksheesh!) after our trip and we picked up some tickets for the Abela Sleeping Trains for our journey to Aswan the following night.  That evening we had dinner at a LP recommended restaurant ‘Gad’ and sampled the Egyptian pancakes, lamb and okra.

Egypt – Our first day in Cairo

There has been plenty of focus on Egypt over the past few months since the historical revolution events of January.  Being in the region, Egypt was one of the countries which we were both keen to visit.  We had some initial apprehensions about visiting Egypt but by April it seemed things had stabilised, so we decided to visit Egypt in mid-May. Cairo was our first destination which is about a two and a half hour flight from Doha. We had planned to start from Cairo (Lower Egypt) and follow the Nile, travelling south to Luxor and Aswan (Upper Egypt).

We arrived in Cairo late afternoon and were immediately (and expectedly) ambushed by taxi drivers. On our way to our hostel our taxi driver had a small prang with another car. There was a bit of yelling, shouting in Arabic and eventually the cars went their own ways. The traffic in downtown Cairo was crazy. There are cars everywhere and the beeping was non-stop.  Cairo’s Islamic Architecture is absolutely amazing though – it’s no wonder it is called the City of Minarets.

After checking in to the cosy Pension Roma, we dropped our backpacks and headed towards the main downtown area. We walked until we reached the historical Tahrir Square – only that morning we were watching the footage on Al Jazeera as some peaceful demonstrations took place!! Quite surreal. It was Friday which is the most important day for prayers in Islam world. As such, any demonstrations usually take place on the Friday, after prayers. A couple of men approached us as we were walking, small talking and eventually asking us to visit their papyrus shop.  Despite all the violence that had taken place a few months ago at that same spot, Tahrir Square, on that day, was a bustling marketplace.  There were street food-vendors selling tea and popcorn, people selling January 25th t-shirts, and plenty of people just there enjoying the atmosphere. There also seemed to be some focus on the Palestinian cause as we saw many Palestinian flags and had read that there would be some demonstration regarding this.  Around the Tahrir Square area we saw lots of street art relating to the January revolts.

We continued walking towards to the Nile river, and up along the Kasr Al Nile Bridge, and back through the 6th October bridge. Though we had been briefed by my parents, Cairenes and other people who had visited Cairo, it was a lot noisier, busier than I had expected. We were stopped numerous times by people asking us where we were from, etc.  After a few hours of exploring the city by foot we were quite exhausted and decided to head back to our hostel, on our way stopping at a delicious falafel shop.

Once world famous chocolatier in 1920s J. GroppiTahrir Square freedom for PalestineArabic writing at Tahrir Square
25th January T-shirtsI love Egypt T-shirtsEgyptian flag in front of Tahrir Square
Tahrir Square freedom for PalestineTravis at Tahrir SquarePower of Revolution graffiti
Qasr al-Nil Bridge with lionsNile RiverSonya at the 6th October Bridge

Camel racing, Qatar

On the weekend we decided to venture to the Qatar camel race tracks in the hope of watching the traditional Bedouin sport. Little information could be found out about the races beforehand, except that they are usually held in winter and the main race course was in Al Shahhaniya. Races supposedly commenced after midday Fridays and Saturdays (the weekend here).

We arrived at the race course (about 40 minutes out of Doha) around 1pm, there was no one around aside from a few camels being trained. The stands were empty and locked so we figured the race had most probably been cancelled. As we were there already, we decided to take a few photographs of the training camels. After some time, we noticed other cars appearing and eventually established that the races were to commence at 1:30pm. It wasn’t a sit down and watch from the stands kind of race. The local custom is to drive your car (4WD in most cases) along side the racing camels – there’s even a road which runs next to the track.

We lingered around the starting point for the next 20 minutes, watched the trainers as they prepared the camels. Rather than a human jockey, they use robot jockeys which have an electronically controlled whip. Quite a comical sight. We somehow kind of missed the first race – there was no official announcement or anything – it just happened suddenly and I suspect the race really started whenever the camels wanted to start. However, there were another 3 races to go. It was all very entertaining to watch. One camel even headed in the opposite direction. During the last race we joined the convoy of 4WDs (in our tiny 208 Peugeot coupe) and drove alongside the camels towards the finish line. There were plenty of people there, mainly Qatari, in their white Landcruisers driving crazily around the track and cheering along their camels. It was definitely worth the visit – a very local and fun experience!

Mustering the camelsMustering the camelsPreparing for the races
Looking seriousMore camelsTeam Qatar (maroon and white)
Robot jockeysCamel with trainerPreparing for the start
And they are off and racingFollowing the racing camelsTrainers following their camels

Life in Doha – Six Months On

So it has been just over six months since our move to this tiny, gas-rich country in the gulf. The past months have gone by quickly but at the same time it feels like we have been here for longer. In some ways adjusting to life in Doha hasn’t been too difficult – it’s a very family oriented city, extremely safe (they say you can leave your car unlocked here and it will be fine, though I’ve never tried) and almost 70% of the population is an expat – so most people we’ve met are in the same boat – away from family, friends, familiarity, living in a foreign land. Most people come for work, and to raise their family in a safe stable environment, many come for the tax benefits – there are all sorts of people and from everywhere. (Generally, most people look at me strange when I say we came for the adventure!).

In other ways, living in this country can be challenging (namely the traffic, and having to ask your employer’s permission before being able to do anything – ranging from buying liquor to leaving the country!). However, six months on and, if anything, living here has opened my eyes to things I would never have seen or experienced back home. Anyway, here are some of my favourite things about living in Qatar:

1. People. There’s an incredible mix of people and culture in this country. I’ve met and work with people from Palestine, Tunisia, Nigeria, Egypt, Lebanon, Wales, Ireland, South America, Holland, Estonia, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, the list goes on of all places around around the world.. listened to their stories and each day I learn something new about these places, whether a new word in a new language or a different perspective on a country’s political environment (particularly with the recent events in the region).

2. Food. I was never very exposed to Middle Eastern food – aside from the usual hommus and pita bread, back home. However, after adapting to the local produce here we’ve started experimenting, making our own fattoush, tabboleh, and various other dishes. We incorporate lots of mediterranean food like olives, capsicum, eggplant, couscous, into our meals – plus there’s a wider variety of South Asian foods as well (ever seen a drumstick or a Kerala Chow Chow?).

3. Souk Waqif. This is my most favourite place in Doha. It is the original market place of old Doha and is probably the most beautiful souk I’ve seen so far (even after visiting Istanbul, Amman and Beirut!). A friend from work described being there like being in a time warp – you enter the souk and you’re suddenly in a different world. The fragrances of Arabic perfume, the sight of local Qatari’s in their dishdashas and abayas… the beautifully refurbished Islamic architecture..narrow alleys leading you to silk pashminas, pearls, gold or cheap knicknacks…the smells …spices..apple shisha.. even the nearby camels. It is really quite an amazing sensory experience.

4. The corniche. This is is kind of like the unwritten meeting place for all significant events. It is the street that runs along the blue green waters of the Arabian gulf. When Qatar won the 2022 bid, everyone headed to the corniche. Qatar National Day is celebrated on the corniche. On a Thursday evening, the corniche is packed with people, enjoying the city skyline and the sea breeze. There are also heaps of familiies picnicking along the corniche on the weekends.

5. Events. Okay, so from a musical or theatrical perspective Doha doesn’t have much to offer (aside from the annual Bryan Adams concert) however sporting events are huge – so far we’ve seen tennis, football (Asia Cup was on in Jan) and this weekend we’re off to watch the annual camel racing. Things we wouldn’t normally watch at home.

6. Lastly, ability to travel. Qatar is so close to the gulf states, as well as the rest of the Middle East and North Africa. Being from one of the world’s most physically isolated cities – it is quite amazing to be able to hop onto a flight and, in less than an hour, be in another country. Hope we can see more before we head back home!