Goodbye 2011!

Another year has come and gone and we look back at 2011 with fantastic memories. Our move to the Middle East has given us opportunities to travel to places we had only ever dreamed of visiting!

We started 2011 off in Beirut, Lebanon, enjoying the life and culture of this beautiful city. In February we travelled to Turkey with my sister where we fell in love with Istanbul, paid our respects in Gallipoli and marvelled at the ruins of Ephesus. In May, and after we had watched the revolution in Egypt take place, we decided to visit this ancient land of the pyramids – from Cairo to Aswan it was one of the most unique experiences. During the hot Arabian desert summer of June to August, we braved the heat in Qatar and then experienced our first Ramadan. A trip back to Perth in September was a special one spent with family and friends. Towards the last few months we visited a few other gulf countries – A trip to Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Kuwait and of course – the highlight – the beautiful, wild, Oman.

It has been an amazing year, and we’re looking forward to the new experiences that await us in 2012!

Qatar National Day 2011

Qatar National Day is celebrated annually on the 18th December as it marks the historical day in 1878 when Shaikh Jasim, the founder of the State of Qatar, succeeded his father, Shaikh Muhammad Bin Thani, as the ruler and led the country toward national unity.

It is a special day for Qatar and during the lead up to the day, the whole country is decorated with flags and Doha’s corniche trees are covered with lights. Cars, of both Qataris and expats, are also decorated with displays of patriotism, pictures of HH (His Highness) The Emir, the Qatari Flag, white and maroon colours, hearts…etc. This is our second Qatar National Day, however this year we made a conscious effort to make sure we didn’t miss the main events (i.e. the early morning military parade). Last year, we arrived on the corniche as the crowd was dispersing… and unfortunately, after the parade had finished. Anyway this year we woke up nice and early and walked across to the corniche. By the time we arrived and found a spot on the road it was about 7:30am, and the place was packed! We actually found it difficult to find a space, but managed to squeeze behind some young Qatari women.

The parade started with the Qatar National Anthem. After a recitation from the Holy Qura’an, the Parade was led by a group of Qatari children wearing national costume, accompanied by horsemen and camel riders in traditional dress. After this there was a car convoy, followed by Infantry Forces, Police, Internal Security Force, and Emiri Guards, and all their associated equipment and vehicles, like tanks, boats and so on. In between that, there was a particularly magical moment where we, the spectators, turned around away from the parade to see hundreds of traditional Dhows sailing across the Arabian gulf towards the city skyline (my favourite moment of the parade). It was such a nice surprise and so beautifully done. The parade finished with an air show by the Qatar Emiri Air Force.

In the evening we headed back to the corniche to watch the crazily dressed up cars and their equally crazy drivers (an experience which warrants a separate post and photos in itself, so stay tuned) parade down the main corniche strip. There was also a Dhow Laser Light show and of course the night ended with the magnificent display of fireworks.

Qatar flags draped over a buildingMan waiving Qatar flagArabic Horse
Dhows sailing across the Arabian gulfCamelsModern military helicopter with tradition dhow
Emiri GuardsMilitary JeepSmall armoured vehicle
Small armoured vehicleMilitary TanksMilitary Tanks
Gun turret with soldier at ready positionMilitary special forces unitPowered paragliders
Military aircraft with smoke trailsMilitary helicopters over the Arabian gulfMilitary helicopters with West Bay in the background
Military aircraft with smoke trailsMen wearing traditional Keffiyeh leaving the paradeTen story Qatari flag

Traditional Dhow Exhibition, Katara, Doha, Qatar

This evening we ventured into Doha’s valley of culture, Katara to the First Traditional Dhow Exhibition in the Gulf region. The Dhow is the name for traditional Arab sailing vessels. For the last 13 centuries, dhows were used as the main trading vessels sailing to India and East Africa and were commonly used by fishermen and pearl divers.

Dhows are not an unfamiliar sight in Doha.  They are seen docked along the Arabian Gulf on the harbours of the corniche, however the exhibition was a chance to see the Dhow up close. We arrived as the sun was setting providing a beautiful view of the bay. A lot of the dhows seemed to be Omani (probably from Sur), and were built over forty years ago.

Sonya next to the Traditional Dhow Exhibition welcome sign
Entrance to the exhibition, Qatar flag on sails
The many Dhows on display
Captain relaxing on his dhow
Captain in a relaxed pose
A dhow
Sonya on a dhow
Travis with dhows in the background
Captain on his dhow
Dhow with half-mast sail
Qatari playing checkers

Nizwa and Jebal Shams, Oman

Our planned travel itinerary was a loop from Muscat to Sur to Wahiba Sands to Nizwa and back to Muscat. On our fourth day we had woken up in the dunes of Wahiba Sands where we finished off the desert adventure with some mild ‘dune bashing’. We left the desert and headed to our next destination, Nizwa.

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/oman-2011-wahiba-sands-to-nizwa-to-jebal-shams.xml)

Nizwa

Nizwa is one of the larger cities in Oman, and also one of the oldest. It was once a centre of trade, religion, education and art. I was keen to visit the animal souq there as I had heard bedouin women trade their goats and other livestock there. Unfortunately, much of the souq was closed due to the Eid holiday, and in fact most of the city was closed. We did however manage to enter the Nizwa Fort (which is one of the most amazing looking forts we’d seen), and view the Nizwa Mosque. Some of the shops in the souq were open allowing us to observe the wonderful silverware and handicraft the city is famous for. We had some shawarmas at a very local restaurant and then the real adventure began!

Red door at the entrance to Nizwa SouqNizwa Fort with the mosque's minaret in the backgroundSonya at the entrance to Nizwa Fort
Geometric building edges of the Nizwa FortNizwa MosqueNizwa Fort's fortification walls
Nizwa Fort's arch leading to some stairsSonya at the Nizwa Fort's central towerNizwa Fort's central tower
Overlooking the date palm plantationsOmani flag at the central tower with the mosque's minaret in the backgroundNizwa Fort central tower

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/oman-2011-nizwa.xml,s)

Jebel Shams

We headed to Jebel Shams, the highest mountain peak in Oman at about 3000 metres. It is part of the Al Hajar mountain ranges. During our research we had read that the peak is frequently visited and camping on the plateau nearby is quite popular. After a winding drive up the ranges we stopped at a few scenic look out points. There were plenty of mainly Indian expat families doing day trips from Nizwa or Muscat. One of the main attractions is the beautiful gorge which is often described as the Grand Canyon of Arabia. Since we had a 3WD we decided to explore the off road tracks. It was a bit cooler on the ranges and we wondered if our plan to camp was the best idea. Nevertheless we were intent on doing it.

After driving to a few different spots and meeting many of the local children (who were bold enough to ask for sweets – I gave them the rest of our Haldiram’s burfi – an Indian sweet, and mandarins) we found a nice spot on the edge (but not to close) of the cliff… surrounded by some rocks. It seemed to have been used as a campsite before as a few camp fires were still visible. We setup our tent and Travis used his skills from watching various survival shows – to set up a campfire. To our luck one of the local kids had a box of matches (which we had forgotten to bring with us) which he sold to us for 1 OMR – a bit steep but he could sense we needed it. Value selling, I guess. We returned it to him the following morning anyway!

We had set up our tent and the campfire and by then were eating our takeaway biryani when some Indian families looking around stopped by to make use of our fire. They were surprised to find out that we were camping there that night and keen to look inside our tent (perhaps they had not seen one before?). A number of mountain goats had appeared (they have a good sense of smell), interested to see what we could offer them. As the sunset we gathered more firewood and watched as the last of the sun shone on the gorges eliminating them in beautiful red and orange colours.

That night we slept, well, relatively peacefully. The wind was quite strong and it did get a little chilly – thank goodness for sleeping bags! In addition there were some youths parked at another lookout from us and we could hear them partying all night. All in all camping on Jebel Shams is definitely fun experience!

Jebal Shams, the Grand Canyon of ArabiaSonya at Jebal Shams, the Grand Canyon of ArabiaJebal Shams, the Grand Canyon of Arabia
Sonya feed a goat some lettuceSonya and Travis camping at Jebel ShamsTravis and many goats at Jebel Shams

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/oman-2011-jebal-shams.xml,s)