Category Archives: Iran

Travels through the Islamic Republic of Iran

Outer Yazd, Iran – Meybod, Chak Chak and Kharanaq

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We decided to spend our second day in Yazd doing a day trip to surrounding towns – Meybod, Chak Chak and Kharanaq.

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/outer-yazd-iran-meybod-chak-chak-and-kharanaq.xml)

  1. Meybod
  2. Chak Chak
  3. Kharanaq

Meybod

About forty minutes north of Yazd, Meybod was our first stop. Like Yazd, it is also a desert city and much of its buildings are made from mud-brick.  We visited the Narin Qal’eh (Narin Castle), a mud-brick fort which incorporates mud-bricks from various periods from Sassanid, Achaemenid to Islamic. From the top, it provided us a view of the town of Meybod.

Small mud brick structure outside Narin CastleThe entrance and guard tower of Narin CastleInside Narin Castle, on of the guard towers
Sonya standing under an archTown of Meybod, the inverted cone in the background is a ice-houseOne of the many corridors leading to rooms
Sonya sitting on some stepsOutside Narin Castle, a small cave structureA man creating mud bricks, used to restore Narin Castle

In Meybod we also visited an icehouse, very similar to the one we saw in Abarqu, an old post office and a once bustling caravanserai; a roadside inn where travellers could rest and recover from their day’s journey.  The pigeon towers was our last stop in Meybod, a tower that once hosted 14,000 pigeons – inside it was quite impressive and unique.

Domed roof of the caravanseraiMan making traditional nomad carpetWomen making traditional nomad scarfs
Inside the caravanserai, a roadside inn where travellers could rest and recover from their day’s journeyThe entrance of the old post officeThe old post office, resembling a fort due valuable mail
Thousands of pigeon holesSonya with the thousands of pigeon holes behindThousands of pigeon holes
Thousands of pigeon holesThousands of pigeon holesThe Meybod pigeon tower

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/yazd-iran-meybod.xml,s)

Chak Chak

The village of Chak Chak was our next stop. It is known to be the most sacred of sites for Zoroastrians. Chak Chak is literally built on a mountain cliff in the middle of the desert. The name ‘Chak Chak’ is the Persian word for ‘drip drip’ due to the ever-dripping spring located at the mountain.

The main attraction is the Zoroastrian temple guarded by two bronze doors on top of the cliff. Inside is a fire which burns eternally. Each year thousands of Zoroastrians visit this temple from June fourteen to eighteen.  Tradition requires that on approaching Chak Chak, when pilgrims see the temple, they must walk the remaining distance.

Crumbling brick buildingPersian guard on door leading to the Zoroastrian fire temple roomChak Chak visible in the vast mountains
Chak Chak on the edge of the mountainsChak Chak on the edge of the mountainsChak Chak visible in the vast mountains

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/yazd-iran-chak-chak.xml,s)

Kharanaq

Kharanaq is another town in the Yazd District which is believed to have been occupied for more than four-thousand years. This spot was a particular favourite of mine as there was barely anyone around and the whole ancient village made completely of mud-bricks (no longer occupied) made for a very eerie atmosphere.  We were so impressed by just how extensive the old village was – and even got lost in the maze heading back towards the car. The site also consists of a Qajar era mosque and a shaking minaret.

Travis taking a photo of one of the many mud brick alleysTravis in one of the many passage waysThe shaking minaret
Close up view of the shaking minaretKharanaq mud brick village with the turquoise mosque dome visible in the backgroundKharanaq mud brick village
Kharanaq mud brick villageKharanaq mud brick village with the turquoise mosque dome visible in the backgroundKharanaq mud brick village
One of the many alleys in KharanaqSonya finding her way out the villageThe mud brick buildings of Kharanaq

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/yazd-iran-kharanaq.xml,s)

At the end of our tour, our driver Ali took us back to Yazd where we had a late lunch and departed Yazd on a four-and-a-half hour bus to Esfahan.

Related posts:

  1. Yazd, Iran
  2. From Shiraz to Yazd – Persepolis, Pasargadae and Abarqu
  3. Mashhad, Iran’s holiest city
  4. Dizin Ski Resort, Iran
  5. Shiraz, our entry to Iran

Yazd, Iran

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Yazd is a city located roughly in the centre of Iran, surrounded by mostly deserts, producing hot dry summers. Due to this hot climate, Yadz is made up of distinctly Persian architecture, which includes Qanats (underground water systems),  windcatchers (protruding vents from buildings to catch and circulate air), Yakhchals (ancient evaporative coolers) and Adobe (the building material which included straw providing insulation).

We stayed at the centre of Yazd’s Old City, so everything was walking distance. Some of the highlights and experiences included;

Amir Chakhmaq square – featuring a beautiful Takieh (used during the commemoration ceremonies of the death of Imam Hussein) a three tiered facade with double minarets, best experienced at sunset.

Nakhl – usually at the site of the Takieh and used in conjunction with the commemoration ceremonies, the large wooden structure is carried by men on the first day of the ceremony.

Jameh Mosque – Yazd’s Congregational Mosque (Grand Mosque), amazing blue mosaics and has the highest minarets in Iran,  worth a visit at night when the minarets are alight.

Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin – a building housing the tomb of Sayyed Roknaddin Mohammed Qazi, a beautiful blue on beige mosaic dome, again must be seen at night when alight with blue.

Towers of Silence (Dakhma) – a Zoroastrian site where the dead were placed to allow vultures to eat the flesh, this prevented the decomposing body to pollute the environment.

Persian architecture – Yazd really does look like what one would imagine a Persian city to look like, the sandy coloured mud-brick walls, narrow alleys and bazaars, flat rooftops and abundant use of natural light.

Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar and Partners  (a Yazd sweet shop) – recommended by Morteza as we passed it while driving into Yazd from Shiraz, we purchased an assortment box for 140,000 Riyals ($7.50 USD). I have never tasted anything more extraordinary, each sweet had a distinctly different use of spices and flavours and a different texture, they were amazing.

Yazd clock towerHzyrh Mosque (Mohammadi Shrine)One of the halls inside the Hzyrh Mosque
One of the many bazaar alleysPersian metal-working, making a copper dishPale green door
One of the outer courtyard halls of the Jameh MosqueBlue honeycomb tiles, confused insects and kept them away from the prayersWooden door displaying the two different knockers used depending on gender
One of the many alleys in the old cityA Persian windcatcher (badgir)Machine used for carpet weaving
Water reservoir (Ab-anbar) with windcatchers used to cool the waterOne of the many alleys in the old cityLooking over Yazd old city, Jameh Mosque minarets stick out
Looking over Yazd old city, windcatchers protrudingTravis and Sonya with a large wooden doorOne of the two towers of Silence (Dakhma)
One of the two towers of Silence (Dakhma) Amir Chakhmaq Amir Chakhmaq square
Jameh Mosque at nightDome of Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin at nightSweets from Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar and Partners sweet shop

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-yazd.xml)

Yazd Walking Tour

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-yazd-walking-tour.xml)

  1. Amir Chakhmaq Complex
  2. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque
  3. Yazd Water Museum
  4. Hazireh Mosque
  5. Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin
  6. Orient Hotel
  7. Jameh Mosque
  8. water reservoir
  9. Heidarzadeh Coin Museum
  10. Khan-e Lari
  11. Alexander’s Prison
  12. Tomb of the 12 Imams
  13. tourist information office
  14. Hosseinieh
  15. takieh

Related posts:

  1. Outer Yazd, Iran – Meybod, Chak Chak and Kharanaq
  2. Esfahan, Iran
  3. Shiraz, our entry to Iran
  4. Kashan, Iran
  5. From Shiraz to Yazd – Persepolis, Pasargadae and Abarqu

From Shiraz to Yazd – Persepolis, Pasargadae and Abarqu

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We awoke early for a 7am start to meet our driver who would take us from Shiraz to Yazd stopping along famous sites – Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostom, Pasargadae and through the small town of Abarqu before reaching Yazd. In total, the journey would take us over 500km.  Soon into our trip we realised our driver, Morteza Mehrparvar, was quite a comical character, which made our long car trip much more enjoyable.  He had been in the tourism industry for the past seventeen years (which he reminded us a number of times during the trip), and had many stories to tell. He was even listed in the 2000, 2004 and 2008 editions of the Lonely Planet – “page 271” he proudly said.

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-to-yadz.xml)

Persepolis

Similar to the sites in Shiraz, Persepolis was packed with local Iranian tourists.  We explored the sites in awe of the beautiful creations of the ancient Achaemanid Empire, during reign of Darius the Great.  It was clear that Persepolis was once a magnificent city. My favourite features were the staircases – each step consisting of a relief mimicking the ancient customs of bringing gifts to the palaces.

Persepolitan stairway, allowed visiting dignitaries to maintain a regal appearance while ascendingGate of all NationsLamassus, bull with the heads of bearded men
Pair of Lamassus, bulls with the heads of bearded menPair of Lamassus, bulls with wings and a Persian headLamassus, bull with wings and a Persian head
Persian girl taking photo with SonyaThe Gate of All Nations, Eastern sideTwo headed eagle sculptures
Throne Hall (Hundred-Columns Palace)Looking west towards the Gate of All NationsLooking west over Persepolis
Throne Hall (Hundred-Columns Palace)Apadana Palace (The Great Palace of Xerxes)Two colossal stone bulls flanking north side of Throne Hall
Colossal stone bulls flanking north side of Throne HallApadana Palace (The Great Palace of Xerxes)Looking towards the Gate of All Nations
South restoration of PersepolisLooking over Throne Hall (Hundred-Columns Palace)Double horse column capital
Tomb of King of Kings, the Faravahar symbol of ZoroastrianismTomb of King of KingsFlower carvings on the Tomb of King of Kings
Persian soldiers carved on the Tomb of King of KingsView of PersepolisTomb of King of Kings
Zoroastrianism carvings on the Tomb of King of KingsTomb of King of KingsApadana Palace and Zagros Mountains
Gate to Apadana PalaceApadana Palace (The Great Palace of Xerxes)Relief of Lion fighting a Bull
Apadana Hall, Persian and Median soldiersFighting bull (personifying the moon),and lion (personifying the Sun)Persepolitan stairway
Apadana Palace (The Great Palace of Xerxes)Tomb of King of KingsGate to Apadana Palace (The Great Palace of Xerxes)
Sonya and Travis with Apadana Palace in the backgroundRepresentatives of twenty-three subject nations of the Achaemenid Empire bearing giftsLooking towards the Zagros Mountains
Persian soldiersThrone Hall (Hundred-Columns Palace)Gate of all Nations

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-persepolis.xml,s)

Naqsh-e Rostom

Next we stopped off at Naqsh-e Rostom, a site consistent of impressive rock tombs off Darius I, Darius II, Artaxerxes I and Xerxes I located on a smooth mountain face.  A number of detailed reliefs/murals depicting war, victory across the ages are also carved on the rockface surrounding the tombs.  Nearby is Kaba Zarosht, a monument that was thought to be a Zoroastrian Fire Temple but is now regarded to be a treasury of some sort.

Naqsh-e Rostam (Picture of Rostam), one of the elevated tombs (Persian crosses)The investiture Sassanid relief of Ardashir I The triumph of Shapur I Sassanid relief
Equestrian Sassanid reliefThe Kaba-ye ZartoshtView of three of the four tombs (Persian crosses)

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-naqshe-rostom.xml,s)

Pasargadae

The first thing we saw upon reaching Pasargadae was the tomb of Cyrus the Great – a high rectangular tomb.  It seemed a little unimpressive for a ruler who was so highly regarded in Persian history.  Further along was the Pasargadae site, which was much less reconstructed in comparison to Persepolis but worth the visit.

The tomb of Cyrus the GreatTravis at the tomb of Cyrus the GreatThe tomb of Cyrus the Great
The citadel of PasargadaeLooking over ancient Pasargadae from the citadelThe citadel of Pasargadae

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-pasargadae.xml,s)

Sassanian ruins

Morteza also took us on a slight detour to visit an old run down site which was from the Sassanian period.  It was completely deserted (unlike all the other sites we’d visited), aside from a local family who had setup a few troughs to feed a group of baby goats inside the building… Apparently they were from the nearby mountains but weren’t getting enough food.  We enjoyed a cup of hot tea here whilst admiring the nearby snow capped mountains.

The arch entrance to the Saddanian buildingMany baby goats (kids)Many baby goats (kids)
Sonya with a baby goat (kid)Many baby goats (kids)Many baby goats (kids) with the Sassanian building in the background
Many baby goats (kids) with the Sassanian building in the backgroundMany baby goats (kids) with the Sassanian building in the backgroundMany baby goats (kids) eating

Abarqu

Our last stop before Yazd was in Abarqu – here we visited the icehouse – a massive circular pyramid structure which once stored ice from winter’s snow for the hot summers, a 4000+ year old Cyprus tree (although Morteza suspects it is only 1000 years old) and Gombad Ali Dome built in the 11th century.

Abarqu ice houseInside Abarqu ice houseSonya at the entrance of a mud brick wall
Sarv-e Abarqu (cypress of Abarqu)Sarv-e Abarqu (cypress of Abarqu)Gonbad Ali Dome

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-abarqu.xml,s,450,169)

Related posts:

  1. Shiraz, our entry to Iran
  2. Outer Yazd, Iran – Meybod, Chak Chak and Kharanaq
  3. Yazd, Iran
  4. Poets and Gardens, Shiraz, Iran
  5. Gallipoli – The ANZAC Walk

Poets and Gardens, Shiraz, Iran

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After our first day we were fairly comfortable with Iran, its safe streets and friendly people. This day we decided to visit the outer Shiraz sights, which were mainly two tombs and the surrounding gardens. As per the previous day, because of the Persian New Year holidays, all sights were extremely overcrowded.

Tomb of Hafez
Hafez is a famous Persian poet, whose poems are known by heart by all Persians. Hafez’s hometown Shiraz, which he rarely left, was a predominant influence in his poetry.  In Shiraz is the Hafez mausoleum which consists of his tomb and memorial hall, all surrounded by lush orange trees and ponds.
One of the interesting things is the sale of verses of Hafez’s poetry which are selected randomly by a canary or budgie; the bird will use its beak to select a single piece of paper from a box of many.

The Tomb of Hafez protected under a domed coverThe Tomb of Hafez covered with verses of poetryThe design on the undercover of the dome
Sonya with the Hafez mausoleum in the backgroundThe vast gardens leading up to Hafez's TombA canary choosing a verse of Hafez's poetry

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-tomb-of-hafez.xml,s)

Delgosha Garden
Situated  between Hafez’s Tomb and Saadi’s Tomb is Delgosha Garden, one of Iran’s oldest gardens. To the east of the garden is a small mountain which we climbed provides sweeping views of Shiraz.

Delgosha Garden pond leading to a mosqueDelgosha Garden trees leading to a mosqueDelgosha Garden trees leading to a mosque
View of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountain
View of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountainSonya and Travis with Delgosha Garden in the background

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-delgosha-garden.xml,s)

Tomb of Saadi
Similar to Hafez, Saadi was a famous Persian poet, born in Shiraz, Iran. Whilst Hafez rarely left Shiraz, Saadi spent the majority of his life travelling surrounding countries, after which his learnings were reflected in his poems. The Saadi mausoleum contains vast gardens surrounding the tomb.

Entry leading to Tomb of SaadiSonya in front of some colourful mosaicsSome metal work in the Saadi mausoleum

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-tomb-of-saadi.xml,s)

Related posts:

  1. Shiraz, our entry to Iran
  2. From Shiraz to Yazd – Persepolis, Pasargadae and Abarqu
  3. Yazd, Iran
  4. Dizin Ski Resort, Iran
  5. A look back at Iran