Buying a Persian carpet

Iran is famous for its handmade Persian carpets, and so prior to departing for Iran we decided we would pick up a carpet as a momentum.

We learnt a lot through visiting various shops where we were shown dozens of carpets, some were amazing, large and intricate in design (taking more than a years work to make and worth thousands of dollars) and even some nomadic carpets known as Gelim. We were informed that in general older carpets were worth more than those that were newer, and as such many people consider Persian rugs an investment.

After initially looking at many colours and designs, we decided we liked the pale cream coloured carpets with blue designs, which happened to be a common design made in Nain. Nain is located on the edge of the western desert and the pale cream colours represent the sandy deserts, and the blues the skies.

The base of a carpet can be cotton, wool or silk, with the price increasing in that order, silk carpets are much finer (number of knots per square centimetre) in comparison to wool carpets, resulting in more detailed designs and costlier carpets.

Nain carpets, these carpets have a cotton base, unlike the Isfahan carpets which are generally made with a silk base. In the end, we chose a wool/silk blend carpet, which is predominantly wool and with its intricate designs in white silk, a common approach in Nain carpets.

Nain carpets also use the common Persian Shah Abbas design, which is very similar to the mosaic floral designs on mosques of the Safavid dynasty.

After staring at three very similar Nain designs side-by-side (the shop keeper even mentioned side-by-side is a difficult choice, but at home individually they would all look good), we chose a beautiful 150 by 100 centimetres carpet. It cost us $310 USD which we were both very happy with, we shipped it to Australia for an additional $80 USD.

We recommend Ariana Carpet, Mr Asadi who was extremely informative and helpful.

Sonya and the carpet seller
The three Nian carpets

Yazd, Iran

Yazd is a city located roughly in the centre of Iran, surrounded by mostly deserts, producing hot dry summers. Due to this hot climate, Yadz is made up of distinctly Persian architecture, which includes Qanats (underground water systems),  windcatchers (protruding vents from buildings to catch and circulate air), Yakhchals (ancient evaporative coolers) and Adobe (the building material which included straw providing insulation).

We stayed at the centre of Yazd’s Old City, so everything was walking distance. Some of the highlights and experiences included;

Amir Chakhmaq square – featuring a beautiful Takieh (used during the commemoration ceremonies of the death of Imam Hussein) a three tiered facade with double minarets, best experienced at sunset.

Nakhl – usually at the site of the Takieh and used in conjunction with the commemoration ceremonies, the large wooden structure is carried by men on the first day of the ceremony.

Jameh Mosque – Yazd’s Congregational Mosque (Grand Mosque), amazing blue mosaics and has the highest minarets in Iran,  worth a visit at night when the minarets are alight.

Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin – a building housing the tomb of Sayyed Roknaddin Mohammed Qazi, a beautiful blue on beige mosaic dome, again must be seen at night when alight with blue.

Towers of Silence (Dakhma) – a Zoroastrian site where the dead were placed to allow vultures to eat the flesh, this prevented the decomposing body to pollute the environment.

Persian architecture – Yazd really does look like what one would imagine a Persian city to look like, the sandy coloured mud-brick walls, narrow alleys and bazaars, flat rooftops and abundant use of natural light.

Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar and Partners  (a Yazd sweet shop) – recommended by Morteza as we passed it while driving into Yazd from Shiraz, we purchased an assortment box for 140,000 Riyals ($7.50 USD). I have never tasted anything more extraordinary, each sweet had a distinctly different use of spices and flavours and a different texture, they were amazing.

Yazd clock towerHzyrh Mosque (Mohammadi Shrine)One of the halls inside the Hzyrh Mosque
One of the many bazaar alleysPersian metal-working, making a copper dishPale green door
One of the outer courtyard halls of the Jameh MosqueBlue honeycomb tiles, confused insects and kept them away from the prayersWooden door displaying the two different knockers used depending on gender
One of the many alleys in the old cityA Persian windcatcher (badgir)Machine used for carpet weaving
Water reservoir (Ab-anbar) with windcatchers used to cool the waterOne of the many alleys in the old cityLooking over Yazd old city, Jameh Mosque minarets stick out
Looking over Yazd old city, windcatchers protrudingTravis and Sonya with a large wooden doorOne of the two towers of Silence (Dakhma)
One of the two towers of Silence (Dakhma) Amir Chakhmaq Amir Chakhmaq square
Jameh Mosque at nightDome of Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin at nightSweets from Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar and Partners sweet shop

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-yazd.xml)

Yazd Walking Tour

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-yazd-walking-tour.xml)

  1. Amir Chakhmaq Complex
  2. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque
  3. Yazd Water Museum
  4. Hazireh Mosque
  5. Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin
  6. Orient Hotel
  7. Jameh Mosque
  8. water reservoir
  9. Heidarzadeh Coin Museum
  10. Khan-e Lari
  11. Alexander’s Prison
  12. Tomb of the 12 Imams
  13. tourist information office
  14. Hosseinieh
  15. takieh

Poets and Gardens, Shiraz, Iran

After our first day we were fairly comfortable with Iran, its safe streets and friendly people. This day we decided to visit the outer Shiraz sights, which were mainly two tombs and the surrounding gardens. As per the previous day, because of the Persian New Year holidays, all sights were extremely overcrowded.

Tomb of Hafez
Hafez is a famous Persian poet, whose poems are known by heart by all Persians. Hafez’s hometown Shiraz, which he rarely left, was a predominant influence in his poetry.  In Shiraz is the Hafez mausoleum which consists of his tomb and memorial hall, all surrounded by lush orange trees and ponds.
One of the interesting things is the sale of verses of Hafez’s poetry which are selected randomly by a canary or budgie; the bird will use its beak to select a single piece of paper from a box of many.

The Tomb of Hafez protected under a domed coverThe Tomb of Hafez covered with verses of poetryThe design on the undercover of the dome
Sonya with the Hafez mausoleum in the backgroundThe vast gardens leading up to Hafez's TombA canary choosing a verse of Hafez's poetry

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-tomb-of-hafez.xml,s)

Delgosha Garden
Situated  between Hafez’s Tomb and Saadi’s Tomb is Delgosha Garden, one of Iran’s oldest gardens. To the east of the garden is a small mountain which we climbed provides sweeping views of Shiraz.

Delgosha Garden pond leading to a mosqueDelgosha Garden trees leading to a mosqueDelgosha Garden trees leading to a mosque
View of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountain
View of Shiraz from a mountainView of Shiraz from a mountainSonya and Travis with Delgosha Garden in the background

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-delgosha-garden.xml,s)

Tomb of Saadi
Similar to Hafez, Saadi was a famous Persian poet, born in Shiraz, Iran. Whilst Hafez rarely left Shiraz, Saadi spent the majority of his life travelling surrounding countries, after which his learnings were reflected in his poems. The Saadi mausoleum contains vast gardens surrounding the tomb.

Entry leading to Tomb of SaadiSonya in front of some colourful mosaicsSome metal work in the Saadi mausoleum

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/iran-shiraz-tomb-of-saadi.xml,s)

Bahrain – a taste of the Kingdom of Bahrain

Keen to visit another Middle East country whilst in the region, and prior to our travels through Central Asia, we decided to have a two day stopover in Bahrain, a tiny little island to the north-west of Qatar. In addition, the local budget airlines Gulf Air conveniently flew to Shiraz in Iran, our entry to the Silk Road. It was only two days prior to our departure that we received a call from Gulf Air informing us that the capital Manama to Shiraz flights were no longer running for the past eighteen months. Luckily, Qatar Airways also flew to Shiraz, so we quickly booked the flight, it turned out we hadn’t quite left Qatar when we visited Bahrain.

We arrived in the evening and after checking into our hotel we headed to the Manama Souq. The souk is literally a functional market with many stalls and shops littered along narrow streets, contrasting the beautiful fairytale-like architecture that we were familiar with in Qatar. It was so plain, that as we walked around we wandered if we had reached the ‘souq’ yet.

The next day we spent visiting three main attractions, the National Museum, Al-Fatih Mosque and the Qal’at fort.

Bahrain National Museum

The Kingdom’s National Museum has a vast collection of archaeological finds on the ancient Dilmun civilisation, some of the interesting items were the vast amount of foreign artefacts found on the small island country (e.g porcelain from China), indicating the site of the city as a past trading hub.

Wooden Arabic door at Bahrain National MuseumSonya standing on a Bahrain aerial mapSonya sitting on a bench in the Bahrain National Museum
Some turquoise coins in a clay potStone with Arabic carvingsThe calligraphy and manuscripts section
One of the many beautiful QuransClay pot in the Bahrain National MuseumStone arrow heads in the Bahrain National Museum

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/bahrain-2012-bahrain-national-museum.xml,s,16)

Al-Fatih Mosque

The Al-Fatih Mosque, while not the most aesthetic of the mosques we had seen, though was enjoyable and eye-opening due to the very helpful guide that showed us around and answered all of our questions with respect to the Islamic faith, we finally learnt what was being said during the call-to-prayer, how the prayer times were calculated and how to form a tight line shoulder-to-shoulder when praying in the mosque.

Al-Fatih Mosque decorative windowsAl-Fatih Mosque internal courtyardSonya admiring the French lights, that resemble pearls

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/bahrain-2012-al-fatih-mosque.xml,s,16)

Qal’at al-Bahrain

The Bahrain Fort, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and located on a tell (layers of ancient sites). The location of the capital of the ancient Dilmun civilisation, the fort and tell are an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fort complex is quite large and is surrounded by a moat, it took  a little while to walk the circumference. We didn’t spend too much time inside as we were rushed for time.

Bahrain Fort lookout towerQal'at al-Bahrain (Bahrain Fort)Qal'at al-Bahrain (Bahrain Fort)
BeetleBahrain flag on the Bahrain FortArches in the Bahrain Fort
View of Bahrain from the Bahrain FortTravis in front of the Bahrain FortThe Till site of the ancient Dilmun civilisation

thydzikgooglemap(http://sonyaandtravis.com/maps/bahrain-2012-bahrain-fort.xml,s)

Saar Burial Chambers

Located close to the fort is a complex of Dilmun burial chambers, still being excavated and restored, the many chamber mud-brick walls and rooms are visible.